The Role of Hawaiian Culture in Surfing
For ancient Polynesians there existed a hierarchy in their culture and their code of kapu or their laws, and this code predetermined all aspects. This code determines where the upper-class would surf and naturally it was taboo for commoners to venture into the royal surf spots.
The code also determined how long your board should be: commoners with short 12ft surfboards, upper-class members with 24ft longboards.
Surfing was also the Hawaiian society's way of praying to their gods and aside from that it was used as a way to prove yourself and gain respect from the upper-class.
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