The Role of Hawaiian Culture in Surfing

For ancient Polynesians there existed a hierarchy in their culture and their code of kapu or their laws, and this code predetermined all aspects. This code determines where the upper-class would surf and naturally it was taboo for commoners to venture into the royal surf spots.

The code also determined how long your board should be: commoners with short 12ft surfboards, upper-class members with 24ft longboards.

Surfing was also the Hawaiian society's way of praying to their gods and aside from that it was used as a way to prove yourself and gain respect from the upper-class.