For ancient Polynesians there existed a hierarchy in their culture and their code of kapu or their laws, and this code predetermined all aspects. This code determines where the upper-class would surf and naturally it was taboo for commoners to venture into the royal surf spots.

The code also determined how long your board should be: commoners with short 12ft surfboards, upper-class members with 24ft longboards.

Surfing was also the Hawaiian society's way of praying to their gods and aside from that it was used as a way to prove yourself and gain respect from the upper-class.

Surfing requires fitness and strength as surfing was used as a way to determine who would serve as chief during the primitive Hawaiian tribes.

These days, people from all over the word have noticed how fun surfing can be. We surf for fun, bragging rights, or even to become a professionally...