The First Surf Boards
Making your surfboard during the ancient Hawaiian society was a sacred undertaking.
- They would only opt for three types of trees: koa, 'ulu, and wiliwili.
- After choosing a tree, the surfer would dig out the tree and put fish in the hole as a spiritual offering.
Ancient Hawaiian surfers had to carry boards as massive as 175lbs and these practices of making the surfboard were carried out to the very last detail. Only a specialized artisan would make the tree into a surfboard.
The code of kapu determined how long and the shape of your surfboards was allowed to be.
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