Chikan (embroidery)

Chikan embroidery is mostly done on fabrics like cotton, semi-Georgette, pure Georgette, crepe, chiffon, silk, and any other fabric which is light and which highlights the embroidery. The fabric cannot be too thick or hard, else the embroidery needle won't pierce it.

The piece begins with one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabric. The embroiderer stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is carefully washed to remove all traces of the printed pattern.The process includes following steps:

• Design
• Engraving
• Block printing
• Embroidery
• Washing and finishing

The patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used , some of the patterns are listed below:

• Chikankari-Tepchi is a long-running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Thus, a line is formed
• Bakhiya — 'Shadow work' .The embroidery is done on wrong side and we see its shadow on the right side.
• Hool is a fine detached eyelet stitch. A hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all round and worked with one thread.

• Murri is the form of stitch used to embroider the centre of the flowers in chikan work motifs. They are typically French knots that are rice-shaped. Murri is the oldest and most sought-after form of chikankari. 
• Jali : the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft threads are carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth.

So next time when you visit Lucknow , do gift yourself and your loved ones a soothing piece of chikan work. Lucknow literally has the best and authentic collection of chikan work ranging from chikan embroidered shirts , kurties , shararas , hijabs , abayas , sarees , suits , scarfs , lehengas , gowns and what not!